We first visited this town back in 1994, but could not remember anything about it other than we thought we had liked it. So it was like revisiting a long lost treasure, discovering so many fascinating things about this regional town in the centre of Burgundy, about an hour and half drive from our gite at Savigny en Sancerre. Firstly it was full of all the things we love about French historical architecture. It had half timbered buildings, city gates with elaborate clocks and sun dials, fabulous statues and art throughout the city, including great shop signs (the one for the shoe shop wins the award), a vibrant commercial centre and a fantastic cathedral completed in 1560 with great carvings, stained glass windows and frescoes. Of particular note in the cathedral are the number of statues in the portal carvings that were decapitated during the Wars of Religion, the stained glass window and statue dedicated to Joan of Arc, who stayed in Auxerre on her way to Orleans to save the French from the English, and the beautiful 1550 oil painting of St Etienne, the patron saint of the cathedral and the accompanying detailed explanation of the painting including all the symbolism that we never normally learn. Fortunately and pleasingly I could understand all the French explanation!
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