The Duomo (Cathedral) is the classic building icon of Florence, and it is a fabulous building.
It is by far the largest building in Florence and the exterior decoration is fabulous and for me awe inspiring. The building is most famous for its dome, designed by Brunelleschi in the 14/15th century and decorated i nside with frescoes by Vasari and Zuccari. The side walls date from the 14th & 15th centuries, but the front only dates to the 19th century when it was built to match and fit in with the sides of the cathedral. The previous front facade it seems was never completed (I wasn't around then to verify this).
The first few photos show the view of the Duomo and Florence from the Piazza Michaelangelo across the river, and it shows you how much the building dominates the Forentine landscape. The rest show the building up close at various times of the day and night.
It was amazing when we first arrived and I would pass the building every day going into language class and I would just think how amazing it was to be here and pass it all the time. By the time I left, I loved it, but I spent more time avoiding it and the hordes of tourists swarming around the front of the building. Like the native Florentines, you become very proud of the building but you don't go to it and you avoid the area when you can, because of the crowds. Still it was amazing to have such a building to walk past and be able to visit whenever you wanted.
A lot of the original external sculptures have been removed to a museum across the road from the Duomo, to protect them from the ravages of weather and pollution, but the copies in their place are still pretty spectacular.
The Duomo is actually part of a trilogy of buildings - very common in Renaissance Architecture in Italy, especially Tuscany. The other two buildings comprise the Baptistry and the Bell Tower (Campanile), designed by Ghiotto, which were always built separate to the church - I dont know why. Think also Leaning Tower of Pisa = Bell Tower and St Mark's Square in Venice. I have included photos of the Campanile here and the view from the top as I climbed all 480+ stairs! but will leave the Bapristry for another blog entry.
Italian Renaissance churches are very different to the French & English High Gothic cathedrals and overall I think I still prefer the Gothic cathedrals. For me they are more inspiring, but the Florence Duomo is a work of art and very spectacular.
Inside the Duomo.
A lot of people express disappointment on stepping inside the Duomo, as compared to the outside and the frescoed dome, it is very plain. It is a very large cavernous space, and I was also a bit disappointed the first time, but after visiting the place several times, I grew to like the space and spirit of the place. Winter is a good time to visit because it is not overrun with tourists and at times is quite empty! I went to a mass here and it was very nice to just sit and absorb the atmosphere. I had planned to attend midnight mass on Christmas Eve, but it was freezing cold and a 20 minute walk home on my own at 1.00am (as Alan did not want to go) so I gave up the idea!
The 2nd photo is of one of the candle holders - shaped like trees and they looked lovely when carrying lots of lit candles. Other photos include the clock over the front doors and the lovely gold painting below it. The dome is the artistic highlight of this cathedral. In later blogs you will see Italian Renaissance Cathedrals in full artistic glory with frescoed chapels, walls and ceilings and ornate reliquaries and chapel furnishings, but not in the main duomo.
Views of the inside of the famous dome, including the climb up to the top viewing platform. The climb of approx 463 steps is very steep and near the top you actually climb over the dome so floor adjacent to the steps is curved. I enjoyed the climb. The campanile also had around 480 steps - it is a great way to get fit, but not so good for those with claustrophobia, a bad head for heights or a weak heart - there are no elevators.
I think Geoff's (my baby brother) most memorable moment of the climb up the dome was a "lovely" American lady tourist who spent the whole climb telling her young 8 or 9 year old son, in a loud voice, to be careful, don't fall, you could break your neck, it is dangerous, etc etc. Fortunately we only got her on the way down, not going up as well!
The frescoed dome is a wonderful piece of art and actually deserves several visits to take it all in. For me it rivals Michealangelo's Sistine Chapel and it is easier to look at, esp if you climb the dome and view it from the base of the actual dome as well as from the floor of the cathedral.
Views from the top of the Campanile (Bell Tower) and from the top of the Duomo Dome. Things to notice include yours truly and even my baby brother - in a few photos only, (I promise); the large green dome in several of the panoramic shots which is the Florence Synagogue - a fabulous building and also the 2nd largest dome in Florence (a separate blog will eventually come on this); the octagonal building in some shots is the Baptistry, next to the Duomo (again awaiting a separate blog for its interior gold ceiling and its famous doors); the large right angled building with a dome which is San Lorenzo church, the white church front all lit up which is Santa Croce a famous church and art museum incl burial place of well known artists; and also the large square building with turrets and a tall thin tower which is the Palazzo Vecchio - the old palace combining a fabulous tour, museum and the council offices (also awaiting its own blog).
You will also notice the different light in the photos because I climbed the bell tower at sunset in November and the dome in the middle of the day in February. the seasonal light and the time of day make a big difference. Florence has some spectacular sunsets and some great places from which to view it.
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